26 August 2008

i live here now

well hello everyone. i know it's been ages, and i'm sorry. the past six weeks have included vacation, extra summer classes, a bedbug infestation, a visitor, teacher transitions, apartment transitions, monthly tests, and progress reports. i am tired. but i've been doing well, and have done some good reflecting lately which i would like to share with you. that said, i had a wonderful, well-written update ready yesterday, but the neighbor's wireless went away before i could post it. between then and now, my battery died, shutting down the computer and sending my unpublished post into that black hole of tragically unsaved work. my fault for not plugging in the macbook before heading to school, i know. but still. anyway, here's my attempt to rewrite the original...


i wanted to go do something in the city on saturday afternoon and had a hard time deciding what to do. this was partly because i'm terrible at leaving my apartment at a decent time--not heading out until 3:30 when it takes at least 45 minutes to get anywhere doesn't leave much time for when you get there. but this was also partly because everything i want to do is still going to be there next weekend, and the weekend after that, and the weekend after that. et cetera. that sense of urgency which often comes with traveling, that feeling that i have to do everything i can before time runs out, is fading. and as it fades, something new yet familiar grows into its place--an understanding that i'm not just passing through. i'll be here as the seasons change, as birthdays and national holidays pass, as fashion trends shift (hopefully for the better, but i'm not holding my breath). i'm here indefinitely because i like it and it's good for me at this point in my life. there's still a bit of the sense that i am a visitor here, because this is not and never will be my home culture. but that rising feeling of understanding brings with it a contentment. a knowledge that while i'm here, i'm part of the fabric of this city. regardless of how little i feel like a real teacher some days (friends in the education profession, you would be shocked at what passes for a class here), i have a place in korea. it's with the rest of the english teachers who make up a miniature chunk of the population...we're all foreigners, but this place can become home to us just as much as it is to born-and-raised koreans.

i was looking back at my last post from over a month ago, and i see that things have both changed and stayed the same. i still almost die three times a week from motorcycles driving on the sidewalk, the ajumas (older korean women) still push me out of the way in the subway, there's still a load of useless paperwork at school, and the kindergartners still have crazy energy that i'm unable to match at 9:30 in the morning. but those things, which used to straight-up piss me off, are just a part of life now. and being able to say that something frustrating is "just a part of life" is really cool--it means i've made a life of which something can be a part. it sounds so simple, but it's true. and it's a huge thing to me, because when i wrote that last post i was completely unsure whether i'd ever find my place here. i mentioned that i believe your environment is a big influence on who you are, and i meant it in terms of your surroundings affecting and actually changing you. i'm seeing it more now in terms of your surroundings being what they are, showing you who you are, and leaving it up to you whether you let yourself be affected or not. it's about perspective just as much as it is influence. being here is showing me exactly who i am, in part by showing me who i don't want to be, and i love it. every day i learn more, whether it's about myself, the language, the culture, relationships, teaching, whatever. all of these feelings and realizations and learnings related to the fact that i live here now are pieces of a larger picture which is so cool to me. and that is that for the first time in my life, i truly feel that i am part of a bigger world. 

i can go abroad. i can be a wanderer, a vagabond, a traveler. but i can also move overseas and make somewhere completely foreign my home. that is a beautiful thing, and it's a privilege that came with the position into which i was born that i hope i never take for granted. who i am is so entwined with how i see and experience the world. this understanding that i am part of a bigger world gives me just as much perspective, makes me feel just as small, as sitting under a sky full of stars or on a mountaintop or next to the ocean does (which is great, because i don't get to be in those places very much in seoul). i'm constantly surrounded by a sea of people whose stories i will never know--how could i not feel small? and the fact that this culture is so similar to and yet so vastly different from my own gives me a new understanding of what it means for the world to possess such variety. the time i've spent in latin america was one thing, because the culture there is different from the u.s. on every level. but here it's so westernized yet simultaneously so asian, so korean, that i can't help but feel like i've touched a corner of the world that is both connected and remote. and not only have i touched it, but i've made it my home. 

i ended up by city hall on saturday, by the way. there's a huge grassy plaza there which is excellent for hanging out and observing life. so i picked a spot and watched the world go by for awhile before finding the nearby seoul museum of art (the equivalent of 70 cents u.s. currency got me into three floors of great exhibits). when i was done wandering in there, i got an iced tea and sat by a window in the museum cafe while the sun began to set over the buildings and mountains. it was a perfect summer afternoon in the city. 


as usual, i would like to end with some random notes:
1  jeju was amazing and i will be going back. you can check out the photos below for a look at our trip. one awesome thing that we unfortunately didn't discover until our last morning was that there were several olympic triathlon teams staying at our hotel; they were training on the island before heading to beijing. how did we discover this? we had breakfast with the manager of new zealand's triathlon team and he filled us in. turns out those european guys we had been avoiding all week were olympic athletes...oh well.
2  korean lessons are coming along quite nicely. i've been getting better with actual sentences and have recently learned the following (not-so-) useful phrases: "how do you get there?," "i saw 'dark knight' and it was very exciting," and "this fruit is the most delicious." 


miss you all lots! thanks for emails/messages/wall posts...i know i suck at replying sometimes but that does not mean i appreciate them any less :) hope this finds you all well and enjoying life.

chau, 
heather

19 August 2008

summertime, and the livin's easy (photos from july)

this is an approximate reposting of my fourth facebook album of korea for those not on that site. there are several extra photos from jeju included here per request from my mother :)

ellie and i feeling summery in (where else?) olympic park


just watching the world go by



rearranging the apartment yet again:
we had a minor accident


and immediately got out our cameras to photograph the damage


then we cleaned up. thankfully ellie was able to put the fan back together



hiking in bukhansan:
this is where we were headed


hiking in korea is completely different than hiking in the states...nature and quiet are invaded by people and restaurants


the lonely planet guide was not lying when it said "use metal cables to haul yourself up baekundae peak"


there are supposed to be amazing views from here, but feeling like i was in the clouds (literally) was a cool substitute


sweaty and gross but we made it! the poor flag's not in such great shape though


kimbap on a mountaintop


this guy rocks.


looking back at all the mist on the way down


"umm...where are we?"
(we had accidentally hiked entirely over the mountain and down the other side)


blue sky at the bottom



t-shirt found at coex mall...this one's for my perkasie princesses. love and miss you girls :)



summer vacationing on jeju-do:
in the airport before boarding


waiting to take off


hello, four-star hotel. 
this is the view from our balcony...a path of pain, a pool with waterslides, and the sea :)


ahh yes big comfy beds


so i was wrong--this is the closest thing south korea has to blue hole. unfortunately, there's no swimming allowed...lena translated the sign for us, and it warned that the water was very deep (21m), very cold, and contained some sort of dangerous whirlpool thing


rainbow above the waterfall


cheonjeyeonpokpo (cheonjeyeon waterfall)


yay for traveling with your best friend :)


as usual, there were lots of koreans with lots of cameras


a typical moment during our trip...ellie photographing something cool around us and lena photographing herself


a beautiful butterfly that rested long enough for a photo


mmm fresh pineapple


lena on a huge bridge that spans the gorge below the waterfall


it's a long way down


a cool fountain with five different heads for spouts. someone was feeling either creative or indecisive


ah, korea. you would put a family mart inside a pagoda


palm trees and parking lots


jungmun beach


korea does a day at the beach like they do everything else--crowded into a small space, and pretty much on top of the people next to you


the view from under our umbrella


at least the sky was blue and the water was nice :)


view from our balcony at dusk


first haircuts in korea! the hairdresser was slightly amused and slightly unsure of what she was doing


much better for the hot and humid weather :)


doesn't get any better than this


yeomiji botanical garden, which has the largest greenhouse in the world


see? it's huge. and this is just the main room--there were eight smaller rooms off of this, as well as three floors of observation decks above this room


look i'm in the jungle!


having a staring contest with triceratops


croc!


desert garden. the flowers behind us spell out "yeomiji" in korean


they had those funky distortion mirrors; we of course had to take photos


ah, couples outfits...this is one of the tamer sets we've seen


reflection of the roof in the lily pond


water garden


flowers floating by


part of the lotte hotel. slightly out of our price range


hallasan (halla mountain). this is the most we saw of it all week, as the peak was covered in clouds each day


hello down there


the uppermost level of the observation deck


view of the bridge and temple near cheonjeyeonpokpo that we had seen the day before


this took quite a few attempts to get right with the sea in the background


YUM. 


we tried to go to udo (a small island off the coast of jeju) but failed, so we wandered around seogwipo city and found this random market. it used to be streets but has been covered and turned into an indoor market


smoothie break


a stormy afternoon


what we had for dinner almost every night--pringles, kimbap (think sushi without the raw seafood, and ramyeon (think cup o noodles) 




wooden chopsticks are much easier to use than metal ones


bar/cafe at the hotel. this one's for my credit union girls...miss you all tons!


goodbye, jeju


we are going to these islands next time